This exclusive extract is from Clarissa Hyman's new book ‘The Spanish Kitchen', published by Conran Octopus (£20) . The book is a remarkable insight into Spanish cooking. Divided into 17 chapters, each highlighting a regional ingredient, explaining its history and traditions, and illustrated by stunning recipes.
Published by Conran Octopus retail price £20.
Read an extract and try some of the recipes
Edinburgh style bars
Edinburgh style bars suck. It's sad but true and time someone did an emperor's new clothes number on this sub-species of eaterie, so here goes...
Read the rest of Keith Davidson's feature
All change in Abingdon Road (London)
Where once stood Phoenicia, one of London’s oldest and best Lebanese restaurants, there’s now a distinctly western European restaurant from Rebecca Mascarenhas who owns a string of fine neighbourhood restaurants: Sonny’s in Barnes, and Nottingham, and The Phoenix in Putney. Simply called 11 Abingdon Road it is open all day from 8am-11pm, so there are breakfast and brunch menus, while later in the day there’s modern British food like fig and fennel salad with mizuna, roast wet walnuts and Balsamic followed by pan-fried Cornish plaice with braised lentils, buttered leeks and coriander pesto. Look out for the dish of the day, too like: boiled beef and carrots (£15) on Mondays, Southern-fried chicken (£12.95) on Wednesdays, and fish pie (£12.50) on Fridays. Carte £55 for 2, Mon-Fri set L and early D (before 7pm) £12.50 for 2 courses.
11 Abingdon Road, 11 Abingdon Road, London W8, tel: 020 7937 0120
Clerkenwell’s new Indian Thai (London)
The idea behind this bright airy restaurant spread over two floors is not to offer a fusion type of cooking, but two completely separate menus, with food prepared by two head chefs, one Indian, the other Thai. Among the signature dishes are muglai rost gosht, a slow-cooked lamb shank with whole spices, onion, tomato and cashew based sauce, from the Indian menu, and plah neung si-ew, steamed whole sea bass with soya sauce, chilli ginger and spring onion, from the Thai menu. Now does this work? If you stick to one style then the results will be more balanced, but the temptation will be to mix and match, I’m sure. As a fellow diner wryly commented it’s a bit like putting Swedish next to Italian.
Cardamom Rooms, 33-37 Charterhouse Square, EC1, tel: 020 7600 7277
Food by the kilo in Mayfair (London)
Noble Rot may have gone, but in its place, and from the same owners, comes a contemporary French brasserie that opens at 10am daily serving breakfast till noon, then lunch through to dinner until midnight from Monday to Wednesday. From Thursday to Saturday last orders for dinner will be 2am, with the bar staying open for another hour. As well as plateaux de fruits de mer, dishes offered by the kilo include langoustines, mussels and clams. Other items from the menu include artichoke with sautéed wild mushrooms, poached egg and hollandaise sauce; chicken fricassée with morels in cream and baby leeks; and rack of lamb persillé with boulangère potatoes and haricots verts. Among a classic choice of desserts are tarte tatin, and profiteroles with chocalate sauce and vanilla ice cream. About £65 for 2.
Kilo, 3-5 Mill Street, W1, tel: 020 7629 8877 www.kilo-mayfair.co.uk
Is Marlow becoming the new Ludlow? (Buckinghamshire)
Is Marlow set to become the new Ludlow? With Aiden Byrne heading the kitchen at Danesfield House, it looks as if there could be two contenders for Michelin stars in the town this year (see Hand and Flowers, below). Ten years ago, at the age of 22, Byrne became the youngest chef in the UK to be awarded a Michelin star, now he hopes to work the same magic in the Oak Room, a serene space designed by Anouska Hempel slightly let down by the rest of this grand-scale time-warped hotel. A planned revamp by Philippe Starck should sort that out, then Byrne’s exciting, cutting edge cooking will have a fitting home. While time spent at Tom Aikens’ eponymous Chelsea restaurant can be seen in mousses, purées, and foams, Byrne’s presentation and style is more restrained, his flavours clearly well thought through with dishes like sea bass with pickled red pepper, chorizo gnocchi and red pepper vinaigrette delivering visual and sensual punches. Set L £26, set D £49
Danesfield House, Henley Road, Medmenham, MARLOW, Buckinghamshire, tel: 01628 891010 www.danesfieldhouse.co.uk
UK Best Dish winner (Buckinghamshire)
A year ago Tom Kerridge arrived at the Hand and Flowers in Marlow toting Michelin-star credentials (from Adlard’s, Norwich) and started shooting fireworks out of the kitchen. So when Restaurant Magazine inaugurated its UK Best Dishes Awards at London’s Delfina restaurant this October, the big surprise was that Kerridge won the award for best fish and chips a dish only available on his lunchtime bar menu. But it’s well worth the detour and local cognoscenti have been enthralled. Cornish cod caught from day boats ‘so we know it’s not over fished’ is delivered daily, deep-fried in a light yeast-based batter and served with thick, triple-cooked chips (hand cut with an apple corer), home made tartare sauce and watercress. Meanwhile, the carte delivers calendar-correct treats such as Italian potato and horseradish soup with autumn truffle, roast Denham Estate venison with celeriac purée, pickled turnip, mushroom mousse and ceps, and lemon and passion fruit tartlet with passion fruit sorbet, all served against a pretty backdrop of beams, scrubbed tables, ornate mirrors and daytime candles. About £70 for 2.
Hand and Flowers, West Street, MARLOW, Buckinghamshire, tel: 01628 482277
Meanwhile, in Ludlow Hibiscus gets a little brother (Herefordshire)
Claude Bosi of the two Michelin starred Hibiscus restaurant in Ludlow has taken on the lease of the Bell at Yarpole, a sleepy Herefordshire village between Leominster and Ludlow. Claude’s younger brother, Cedric is managing the pub and a Hibiscus trained chef is running the kitchen. This is a large pub for a village the size of Yarpole and had been in decline in recent years, but since the Bosis opened for business, the word that good things are happening here has spread. The car park is full and the bar and dining room are buzzing. Well it would be with a menu that takes in crisp crab cakes with crushed sweetcorn on chilli mayo to begin, followed by braised blade of Scottish beef with horseradish and apple purée, and roast parsnips, or fish of the day with pearl barley risotto, lemon thyme and roast Bitterley pumpkin.
The Bell Inn, Green Lane, YARPOLE, nr Leominster, Herefordshire, tel: 01568 780359
Lough Pool Inn, Sellack has new owners (Herefordshire)
Stephen Bull has left the Lough Pool Inn at Sellack, near Ross on Wye and moved on to pastures new. His was a hard act to follow, but this black and white pub, deep in the Herefordshire countryside, is flourishing in the capable hands of David and Janice Birch (formerly of the Royal Oak at Cerne Abbas) who took over in May. The kitchen is still sourcing the best local ingredients and producing the kind of food for which people will travel many miles, and locals still gather in the bar to enjoy the well-kept hand-pumped ales and draught local cider.
Lough Pool Inn, SELLACK, nr Ross on Wye, Herefordshire, tel: 01989 730236
Jean-Christophe Novelli’s new Harpenden gastropub (Herefordshire)
Hell’s Kitchen chef Jean-Christophe Novelli’s sudden departure from Brocket Hall in mid October came as something of a shock. The reasons why vary depending on which party you listen to. However, it could be said to be a great move for J-C, as he is soon to open his very own gastropub, The White Horse, not too far away in Harpenden. Look out for further news updates on AskMario. His cookery school Novelli Academy at Crouchmore Farm, Tea Green, Hertfordshire LU2 8PS, tel: 01582 454070 continues.
www.jeanchristophenovelli.com
Leeds loses Pool Court (West Yorkshire)
Leeds is about to lose its first serious restaurant, Pool Court. The renowned establishment, which started off in Pool-in-Wharfedale back in 1966, and transferred to Leeds city centre in 1994, will serve its final course on December 31, New Year’s Eve. Michael Gill, the owner, is relocating to France. However, its sister restaurant, Brasserie 44, continues as does Dine, the event and catering company based at Harewood House.
Brasserie 44, 44 The Calls, LEEDS, West Yorkshire, tel: 0113 234 3232 www.poolcourt.com
Leicestershire
and Rutland Restaurant Awards 2005A champagne reception and dinner was held on November 2 at Stapleford Park to announce the winners of these inaugural awards. The winners and nominees (53 in all) were voted for by the public who cast their votes throughout September. Independent judging panels consisting of national, trade and local food writers and journalists, including representatives from The Financial Times, The Guardian, Olive Magazine, Harden’s Guide, Restaurant Magazine, then visited those establishments anonymously throughout October for the final decision. The winners include:
Restaurant of the Year/Best Service/Best drinks/wine list: Hambleton Hall, Hambleton
Best Asian Restaurant: Little India, Arnesby
Best Newcomer: The Woodhouse, Woodhouse Eaves
Best Fine Dining: Horse and Trumpet, Medbourne
Best Value for Money: Le Bistrot Pierre, Leicester
Best Local Produce Menu: The Pump Room, Ashby de la Zouch
Best Gastropub: The Olive Branch, Clipsham
Best Business Lunch: Watson’s, Leicester
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