Raclette - The new fondue? by Clarissa Hyman
Ask anyone to name the Swiss national dish and I bet you a gold cuckoo clock they say fondue. Yes, the original dunk 'n dip that once graced a thousand wedding present lists with a kit that still clutters up the back of the kitchen cupboard alongside the chicken brick and yoghurt maker. Yet Raclette is to the Swiss as paella is to the Spanish or spaghetti to the Italians...
Read Clarissa Hyman's feature on Raclette
Pork Scratchings by Peter Lippitt
If you buy a packet of pork scratchings – the kind of thing pubs sell – you probably won't notice a Black Country postcode printed on the reverse. Peter Lippitt investigates…
Read Peter Lippitt's feature
Top 10 City/Town-centre lunchtime pit stops while doing the sales
Ask Mario's Top 10 places to stop for a bite while shopping in January. Prices are per person unless otherwise stated.
Read our Top 10
Come Eat on City Road (London)
With a restaurant name that translates as Come Eat, Anakana is inspired by Addas, Indian tea houses, and offers both a Canteen, and Piya Piya (Drink Drink) lounge. With no bookings it's first-come first-served, and the emphasis is on authentic and honest street food, with one-course dining on shared tables in the Canteen. House specialities include masala dosa (crisp rice pancakes) with a spicy mix of potato, green chillies, cumin and coriander accompanied by coconut chutney and sambhar (lentil soup), and biryani sona chawaal (dried lamb with seasoned basmati saffron rice). Reservations are taken for the Piya Piya lounge, where lighter snack type food like grilled baby squid, and tandoori paneer accompanies drinks that take in cocktails like Heavenly Cow (papaya, coconut and rum), as well as wines, teas, infusions, fresh fruit juices and lassis. About £30 for 2.
Anakana, 1 Oliver's Yard, City Road, EC1, tel: 0845 262 5262
Two West End old timers get a new lease of life (London)
Two recent major restaurant openings have been Marco Pierre White's long-awaited redevelopment of what was many years ago Maison Prunier, a French, mainly seafood restaurant. From the late 70s until a couple of years ago it was Japanese restaurant Suntory. Marco had intended opening another seafood establishment, but ended up instead with Luciano, a mid-priced restaurant, offering classic Italian food indelibly stamped with Marco's dedication to quality. Not too far away, Richard Corrigan, of Lindsay House fame, has taken over, and refurbished one of London's oldest oyster bars. Bentley's has a stylish ground floor oyster and champagne bar, while upstairs there's the elegant Grill room and Rib room, both with extensive menus that reflect Corrigan's passion for fine ingredients. Both about £100 for 2.
Luciano, 72 St James's Street, W1, tel: 020 7491 0356
Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill, 11-15 Swallow Street, W1, tel: 020 7734 4756
www.bentleysoysterbarandgrill.co.uk
Theatreland favourite is reborn (London)
This long-standing Covent Garden institution has recently been taken over, and the kitchens are now run by the former head chef at Osia, a sadly-missed Antipodean restaurant on Haymarket. The menu has a distinctly French/Med flavour, some classically based as in rope-grown moules marinière, assiette de charcuterie, and fruits de mer, to more modern interpretations: pan-fried foie gras with daikon and quince paste. Mains range from risotto nero to grilled salmon with braised leeks and Noilly Prat, and pan-roasted duck breast with parsnip and mustard purée, and blackcurrant jus. About £70 for 2, set menu from £14.50.
Café des Amis, 11-14 Hanover Place, WC2, tel: 020 7379 3444
www.cafedesamis.co.uk
Harrods' classy patisserie from Parisian Ladurée (London)
Anyone who knows Paris, and Ladurée, the elegant turn-of-the-century salon de thé/patisserie which stands just off the southern end of place de la Madeleine at 16 rue Royale, 8th Arr., will be thrilled that they've opened a beautiful tea-room to the rear of Harrods' Food Halls. The décor is as lavish as the extraordinarily delectable French cakes and pastries on display. 7 flavours of the best macaroons this side of the Channel, and classics like the Fraisier - Kirsch and raspberry liqueur-sprinkled genoise sponge with vanilla mousseline and fresh strawberries; Saint Honoré - chantilly cream, vanilla cream, caramelised choux pastry and light puff pastry; and Symphonie Noire - pure Madagascan chocolate mousseline with chocolate sponge and a flourish of chocolate leaf decoration, will definitely evoke La Vie Parisienne. Patisserie from £3 each.
Ladurée, Ground floor, entry via Hans Road, Harrods, Knightsbridge,
SW1, tel: 020 3155 0111 www.harrods.com
New British gastropub in Putney (London)
The Spencer Arms, a pretty Victorian tavern on the east side of Putney Common, is where Adrian Jones has settled as head chef. Adrian was previously at Shibden Mill, West Yorks, and before that at Cottage Delight at No 64 in Leek, Staffs. His earlier career takes in The Lygon Arms, Broadway, and stints with Gary Rhodes, Sean Hill, Nico Ladenis and Pierre Koffmann. Among the bar snacks are potted shrimps, mini shepherd's pie, Welsh rarebit, and eggy bread with grilled herrings, while more ambitious offerings include duck burger with goats' cheese and beetroot pickle, and his signature 7-hour braised ox cheek with Jabron potatoes and baby onions. About £40 for 2.
Spencer Arms, 237 Lower Richmond Road, SW15, tel: 020 8788 0640
Bolnhurst reaps rewards of changes at Old Bridge (Bedfordshire)
Martin Lee, who for the past 10 years was head chef at the Old Bridge at Huntingdon, has moved to Bolnhurst on the B660, a few miles north of Bedford. The Plough is a delightful squint-walled tavern with medieval origins, but the food is as up-to-date as it gets. There are strong Mediterranean leanings, as in roast sea bass with cavolo nero, confit garlic, marinated potatoes, thyme and olive oil, as well as more traditional dishes like roast pheasant with braised red cabbage, girolle mushrooms, fondant potato, and red wine sauce. There are grills, too, and simpler items like a BLT on toasted ciabatta, and deep-fried pollock with chips and tartare sauce. Sticky toffee pudding with date and walnut sauce and vanilla ice cream, caramel panacotta, and chocolate terrine with bitter orange sauce are examples of the terrific desserts. Incidentally, Martin's replacement at the Old Bridge is Chris Tabbitt who was at the Three Horseshoes, Madingley (also part of the Huntsbridge Group) earlier in his career. About £60 for 2, set L from £11.
The Plough, Kimbolton Road, Bolnhurst, Bedfordshire, tel: 01234 376274 www.bolnhurst.com
Carnarvon Arms gets Bath Priory's chef (Berkshire)
Robert Clayton, the brilliant former head chef at the Bath Priory, Bath has moved to the Carnarvon Arms, Burghclere, Berks. The pub stands en route to Highclere Castle, Lord and Lady Carnarvon's country pile. The dining room has Egyptian motifs inspired by the castle's collection of artefacts brought back by the 5th Earl from his discoveries in the Valley of the Kings. The food, however, is modern British, featuring dishes such as Portland crab with pasta and lobster sauce; wild venison marinated in lemon thyme oil and served with a port sauce; game pie with herb pastry; and pork and leek sausages. There are 12 very up-to-date bedrooms (Wi-Fi, flat, widescreen TVs), with 11 more due. About £60 for 2
The Carnarvon Arms, Winchester Road, Whitway, Burghclere, nr Newbury, Berkshire,
tel: 01635 278222 www.carnarvonarms.com
Padstow is more than Padstein (Cornwall)
Ex Petrus chef Paul Ainsworth, with fellow chefs Michael Boulton and Chris Mapp, has set up this first venture, with Molly Christensen (ex Boxwood Cafe) and Nick Prior (ex Seafood Restaurant) running front of house. Paul sees the opening as a great opportunity, as Padstow does not have enough restaurants to cope with an almost year round demand from tourists on the Rick Stein trail. Indeed, the great man himself attended the opening party last month. With a menu of affordable good food – think ceviche of swordfish with fried oysters, sweet chilli and foraged wild herbs, and glazed pork belly with baby squid, chorizo, feta, chervil and sweet and sour tomato – this is surely a restaurant to watch. Closed Sun evening and all Mon.
£65 for 2.
No 6 Restaurant & Rooms, Middle Street, Padstow, Cornwall, tel: 01841 532093
www.number6inpadstow.co.uk/pages/no-6.htm
West Devon's stunning Endsleigh Hotel (Devon)
In his first head chef role, at the Talland Bay Hotel in Cornwall, Shay Cooper (ex Vineyard, Stockcross) went straight into the Good Food Guide with a mark of 5/10. Now he's moved to Devon, to Olga Polizzi's latest venture, the wonderfully cossetting Hotel Endsleigh set in gorgeous grounds on the edge of Dartmoor. Cooper is currently developing new menus, ready for the start of the season in February (the hotel is closed from 6-27 January), describing the style as a bit different to usual country house fare. What is clear is that Cooper's acute visual sense and imaginative technical skills will ensure that dishes have a drama to match the setting. About £76 for two.
Hotel Endsleigh, Milton Abbot, Tavistock, Devon, tel: 01822 870000
www.hotelendsleigh.com
The Walton Family, no not John-Boy et al, have sold up and departed this corner of east Kent, leaving a huge gap in the area's foodie destinations – at least until ABode opens at The County in Canterbury later in the year. The White Horse has new owners, though the telephone number no longer accepts incoming calls. Oh dear!
White Horse, 53 High Street, Bridge, Kent
JoJo's shuts for a major refurb (Kent)
Such has been the success of JoJo's that, just one year after opening, Nikki Billington and Paul Watson are closing their diminutive tapas bar – to expand. They will close on Sunday 12 February and reopen in May. So, if you haven't been to this extraordinary restaurant, grab the chance now. Nikki Billington mixes influences from Italy, Greece and Spain to produce some of the best modern tapas in this country. The former Whitstable Oyster Fishery chef is particularly adept with fish – her delicate, tender deep-fried calamari are a revelation, only surpassed by the lightest of haddock goujons – but plates of impeccably sourced Italian cured meats, patatas bravas, dolmades and mini chilli peppers stuffed with feta and herbs are also worth exploring. Closed Sun evening, all Mon and Tue. Unlicensed. About £30 for 2.
JoJo's, 209 Tankerton Road, Whitstable, Kent, tel: 01227 274591
Northcote's Annual Food Festival has become an Obsession (Lancashire)
Northcote Manor is holding its annual festival of food and drink from 23rd-29th January. Obsession will feature a different premier league chef each evening, who will prepare a 5-course signature dinner menu, preceded by a champagne and canapé reception. Those taking part this year are Claude Bosi, Hibiscus, Ludlow, Shropshire; David Thompson, Nahm, The Halkin, London SW1; Fergus Henderson, St John, Smithfield, London EC1; Heston Blumenthal OBE, The Fat Duck, Bray; Mark Hix, Chef director Caprice Holdings (Ivy, Caprice); Bruce Poole, Chez Bruce, Wandsworth, SW17; Philip Howard, The Square, London W1, as well as the co-host of the festival: Nigel Haworth, who will offer his 5 course Lancashire menu. Menus £80 per person, except Heston Blumenthal £100 per person.
Northcote Manor, Northcote Road, Langho, Blackburn, Lancashire, tel: 01254 240555
www.northcotemanor.com
Fish and game are winners at Clanfield's Plough (Oxfordshire)
Dating back to the mid-1550s, this picture-perfect mellow Cotswold stone inn has a new owner, who has refurbished the dining rooms: they now have a more traditional edge, with antique furniture and polished wooden floors. The bar has comfortable sofas, with log fires in the winter, and an al fresco terrace for the summer months. The restaurant menu specialises in game: haunch of Ashdown venison; jugged hare; wild boar casserole, and seafood: seared yellow fin tuna steak; whole Dover sole; and halibut fillet. There are 12 en suite bedrooms, too. About £55 for 2.
Plough at Clanfield, Bourton Road, Clanfield, Oxfordshire, tel: 01367 810222
www.theploughclanfield.co.uk
Steven Saunders in Newmarket (Suffolk)
TV chef Steven Saunders has a new feather in his cap – and it's the first of what promises to be a small chain based in eastern England. The Newmarket restaurant is modern, small, intimate and informal and has a menu focusing on seasonal and local produce. Organic ingredients and local game feature in little 'tapas-style' dishes for sharing (order approximately 3 dishes per person for dinner, fewer for lunch). From the cold section you might choose Thai marinated seafood salad with scallops, prawns, and mussels, terrine of wild local grouse with lentil dressing and crostini, or baby organic local beetroot with artichoke hearts and horseradish crème fraiche. Among the hot choices are: Cromer crab cakes with fresh ginger lime and coriander; grilled organic Newmarket sausages with mashed potato and onions; and organic chicken tagine with lemon olives and couscous. There are full-sized dishes, too: chargrilled rib of Aberdeen Angus with béarnaise and wild venison with juniper and organic greens. For dessert, try organic brioche and bread and butter pudding with toffee sauce or spiced organic plums with organic lemon yogurt. About £50 for 2.
Steven Saunders in Newmarket, 4-5 Crown Walk, Newmarket, Suffolk, tel: 01635 665314
www.stevensaunders.co.uk
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